Qumra Master Jacqueline West Underlines Importance of Exploring Psychology of Characters
ุงูุฎุจูุฑุฉ ุงูุณููู ุงุฆูุฉ ุจู ูู ุฑุฉ ุฌุงูููู ููุณุช ุชุคูุฏ ุฃูู ูุฉ ุงุณุชูุดุงู ุงูู ู ุซููู ูุณูููููุฌูุฉ ุงูุดุฎุตูุงุช
QNA
Doha: Four-time Academy Award nominee for Best Achievement in Costume Design Qumra Master Jacqueline West described her creative process to emerging filmmakers at Qumra 2023, underlining the importance of studying the characters in-depth, engaging in extensive research and reading every possible material.
“Once you learn all about the film, the characters, you dress them to reveal the onion skins, the multiple layers, and get the actors to the crux of the character,” she says, adding that “costume design is 50 per cent design and 50 per cent psychology.” Nominated for the Academy Award for Quills (2000), The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (2008), The Revenant (2015) and Dune: Part One (2021), West says she first seeks the approval of her design concepts from the director and only then approaches the actors. There has been little resistance from any directors or actors to her creative approach, which is akin to “being a special shopper for the characters.” She says she used a lot of artbooks and looked at paintings, “and I was reading, reading and reading” – a process that West continues to this day for her projects. Kaufmans advise to West, which is relevant for any aspiring costume designer, is that “when you have an idea for a costume, just make it!” Though she was strong in science, she changed her major to Art History at college, which in hindsight brings that exceptional attention to detail in Wests designs for films. Her knowledge of art history was also a reason director Philip Kaufman asked her to design the costumes for Henry & June (1990) starring Fred Ward and Uma Thurman.
As a costume designer, West says the most important aspect in her work is “having the right fabric, as it guides the look and feel.” She elaborated on her work for The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, a seminal movie that allowed her to design costumes over a period spanning a hundred years.
For The Revenant, the costume design task was equally daunting, having to design ten sets of the same costume for the first scene they shot. She had to use special techniques, including mixing black wax into every dress to make them look dirty. There was little reference material she could bank on for the film as the costumes of the trappers are not documented.
ููุง
ุงูุฏูุญุฉ: ุฃูุฏุช ุฌุงูููู ููุณุชุ ู ุตู ู ุฉ ุงูุฃุฒูุงุก ุงูุฃู ุฑูููุฉุ ุฃูู ูุฉ ุฏุฑุงุณุฉ ุงูู ู ุซููู ููุดุฎุตูุงุช ุงูุชู ุชู ูุญ ููู ูู ุงูุฃุนู ุงู ุงูุณููู ุงุฆูุฉ ูุงูุชููุฒููููุฉ ุจุนู ูุ ูุฅุฌุฑุงุฆูู ุจุญูุซุง ู ูุซูุฉ ููุฑุงุกุงุช ู ุชููุนุฉ ุนููุงุ ุฅูู ุฌุงูุจ ุชูุณูุน ู ุฌุงูุงุช ู ุนุฑูุชูู ุงูุณูููููุฌูุฉ ุจุงูุดุฎุตูุงุช ุงูุชู ุณูุฌุณุฏูููุง ูู ุฃุนู ุงููู ูุฅููุงุน ุงูู ุฎุฑุฌูู ูุงูู ุดุงูุฏูู.
ูุฃูุถุญุช ููุณุชุ ุฎูุงู ุฌูุณุฉ ุฃู ุงู ุงูู ุฎุฑุฌูู ุงูุตุงุนุฏูู ูู ู ูุชูู /ูู ุฑุฉ/ ุงูุณููู ุงุฆู 2023ุ ุฃู ุงูู ู ุซููู ู ุทุงูุจูู ุจุงูุบูุต ูู ุงูุดุฎุตูุฉุ ูุงุณุชูุดุงู ุฌู ูุน ุฌูุงูุจูุง ูููุฌุงุญ ูู ุชูู ุตูุงุ ูุงูุชุฉ ุฅูู ุงููุณุงู ูู ุชุตู ูู ุงูุฃุฒูุงุก ุฅูู ูุณู ูู ูู ุง: ุงูุชุตู ูู ููุณูุ ูุนูู ููุณ ุงูุชุตู ูู .
ูุฐูุฑุช ุฃููุง ุงุณุชุฎุฏู ุช ุงููุซูุฑ ู ู ุงููุชุจ ุงููููุฉ ููุธุฑุช ุฅูู ููุญุงุช ุฃููู ุชูุง ุฌูุงูุจ ูุซูุฑุฉ ูู ุนู ููุง ุงูุณููู ุงุฆู ูุงูุฅุจุฏุงุนูุ ู ุนุชุจุฑุฉ ุฃู ุฃูู ุฌุงูุจ ูู ุนู ููุง ูู “ุงู ุชูุงู ุงูุฃูู ุดุฉ ุงูู ูุงุณุจุฉ ุงูุชู ุชูุฌู ุงูู ุธูุฑ ูุงูุดุนูุฑ”ุ ูุชุญุฏุซุช ุฃูุถุง ุนู ุนู ููุง ูู “ุงูุญุงูุฉ ุงูุบุฑูุจุฉ ูุจูุฌุงู ูู ุจุชู”ุ ุงููููู ุงูุฃุณุงุณู ุงูุฐู ุณู ุญ ููุง ุจุชุตู ูู ุงูุฃุฒูุงุก ุนูู ู ุฏู ู ุงุฆุฉ ุนุงู .
ูู ุง ุฃุดุงุฑุช ุฅูู ุฃูู ุนูู ุงูุฑุบู ู ู ุฃููุง ูุงูุช ู ูุชู ุฉ ูู ุฏุฑุงุณุชูุง ุจู ุฌุงู ุงูุนููู ุ ูุฅููุง ุบูุฑุช ุชุฎุตุตูุง ุฅูู ุชุงุฑูุฎ ุงููู ูู ุงููููุฉุ ุญูุซ ูู ู ูุฐุง ุงูุงูุชู ุงู ุงูุงุณุชุซูุงุฆู ุจุงูุชูุงุตูู ูู ุชุตู ูู ุงุช ููุณุช ููุฃููุงู ุ ููุงูุช ู ุนุฑูุชูุง ุจุชุงุฑูุฎ ุงููู ุฃูุถุง ุณุจุจุง ูู ุทูุจ ุงูู ุฎุฑุฌ ููููุจ ูููู ุงู ู ููุง ุชุตู ูู ุฃุฒูุงุก ููุฑู ูููููู (1990)ุ ู ู ุจุทููุฉ ูุฑูุฏ ูุงุฑุฏ ูุฃูู ุง ุซูุฑู ุงู.
ูู ุง ูููุช ุฅูู ุฃู ู ูู ุฉ ุชุตู ูู ุฃุฒูุงุก ูููู /ุงูุนุงุฆุฏ/ ูุงูุช ุดุงูุฉุ ุญูุซ ุงุถุทุฑุช ุฅูู ุชุตู ูู ุนุดุฑ ู ุฌู ูุนุงุช ู ู ุงูุฒู ููุณู ููู ุดูุฏ ุงูุฃููุ ูุถูุง ุนูู ุฃูู ูุงู ุนูููุง ุงุณุชุฎุฏุงู ุชูููุงุช ุฎุงุตุฉุ ูุฎูุท ุงูุดู ุน ุงูุฃุณูุฏ ูู ูู ูุณุชุงู ูุฌุนูู ูุจุฏู ู ุชุณุฎุงุ ุบูุฑ ุฃูู ูู ูุชููุฑ ููุง ุฅูุง ุงููููู ู ู ุงูู ูุงุฏ ุงูู ุฑุฌุนูุฉ ุงูุชู ูู ูู ุฃู ุชุนุชู ุฏ ุนูููุง ูู ุงููููู ุ ูุฃู ุฃุฒูุงุก ุงูุตูุงุฏูู ุบูุฑ ู ูุซูุฉุ ู ุณุชุญุถุฑุฉ ุชุตู ูู ูุง ูุฃุฒูุงุก ูููู /ูุซุจุงู/ุ ุงูุฐู ุญุตุฏ ุฅุนุฌุงุจุง ูุงุณุนุง ู ู ุงูุฌู ููุฑุ ุญูุซ ูู ูุฑุบุจ ู ุฎุฑุฌ ุงููููู ุฏูููุฒ ูููููููุ ูู ุงุนุชู ุงุฏ ู ุธูุฑ ุฎูุงู ุนูู ู ูู ูุฐุฌูุ ุจุนุฏ ุฃู ูุงู ูุฏ ุฌุฑุจ ุจุงููุนู ุงูุนุฏูุฏ ู ู ุงูู ุตู ู ูู ุงูุขุฎุฑูู.
ููุงูุช ุงูุฎุจูุฑุฉ ุงูุณููู ุงุฆูุฉ ุจู/ูู ุฑุฉ/ุ ูู ุงูุฌูุณุฉุ ุฅููุง ุชุณุนู ุฃููุง ููุญุตูู ุนูู ุงูู ูุงููุฉ ุนูู ุฃููุงุฑ ุชุตู ูู ูุง ู ู ุงูู ุฎุฑุฌุ ูุจุนุฏ ุฐูู ุชุชูุงุตู ู ุน ุงูู ู ุซููู.
ูุฐูุฑ ุฃู ุฌุงูููู ููุณุชุ ู
ุตู
ู
ุฉ ุงูุฃุฒูุงุก ุงูุฃู
ุฑูููุฉุ ุชุฑุดุญุช ูุฃุฑุจุน ุฌูุงุฆุฒ ุฃูุณูุงุฑุ ูู
ู ุจูู ุฃูู ุฃุนู
ุงููุง ูููู
ููููุฒ (2000)ุ ูุงูุญุงูุฉ ุงูุบุฑูุจุฉ ูุจูุฌุงู
ูู ุจุชู (2008)ุ ูุงูุนุงุฆุฏ (2015)ุ ูุงูุฌุฒุก ุงูุฃูู ู
ู ูุซุจุงู (2021).